Sunday 25 December 2011

Christmas...in Golden, Canada

Staying at the dreamcatcher hostel.

I have just had a wonderful Christmas with some wonderful people......

It all started at 6.45am with an early morning wake up call from Abi (the owner) with a secret Santa at 7am.
Everyone was in the Christmas spirit.

Most of us left the hostel around 8:30am to head up to kicking horse mountain for some Christmas day snowboarding and skiing.

We met for a drink at the Eagleseye bar for a festive drink.

As I hadn't been on a board for a few years and so being my first day I did more than my fair share of wipe outs.
It was really having a couple of others with me on a few runs to watch me wipe out!

I ended being up there for the whole day but by the end of it every muscle in my body had turned to jelly.

Let the evening commence.....

Well on returning to the hostel it was time to start getting ready for Christmas dinner. Just about everyone was cooking.
So at around 7:30pm when we started to eat...
It was a fantastic meal with great company.
With a few festive games to be had after.

Well the night draws to a close, on the wonderful day.
Merry Christmas everyone

Thank you
Abi and Jerold
owners of the dreamcatcher hostel Golden, Canada
For making this a Christmas to remember.

Monday 12 December 2011

A view from the window

A perfect Monday morning looking over Vancouver in to the mountains.

Monday 5 September 2011

After a few great days in Yakutsk and meeting some wonderful people it was time to leave and make my way to Magadan!!!

I left the city on rather cloudy drizzly day. i made my way to the ferry where I borded straight away but still sat here waiting to leave for around half an hour till we left.
As I sat in the car watching as we floated down the river back to the other side I couldn't help but feel a little sad as I was starting my final leg across Russia.

Well the ferry takes around an hour to cross from one side to the other but its a lovely ride either way costing 470 roubles for the land rover.

The drive today was quit spectacular with the vast changing colour of the trees.... Such a vast aray of colours over a huge scale.
I must admit even though I won't be driving the summer route of the road o bones I am really happy that I get to see this magical change of coloures.

I arrived at the river at around 6:30pm. Even though there was a boat waiting to go I decided to camp this side and cross in the morning.

Thursday 1 September 2011

1st September 2011

Good morning Setptember and what a morning it is!!!
It must be the coldest its been since winter time back in the Uk. I have ice on the inside of my tent from I suppose the frozen condensation. It is giving me a tast of what was to come over the next few weeks.

After kind of warming up by putting on lots of layers, jumping aroung for a little bit and with a coffee inside me I got moving.

The road to Yakutsk was the same as it has been for the last 700 miles a rough dusty dirt road with the odd stretch of asphault.

I arriver at the ferry for Yakutsk early afternoon. It was more of a ship than a ferry taking nearly an hour to reach the city.

Sunday 21 August 2011

East side Bikal

On the 16th Of August I drove up thу easten side of Lake Bikal. I drove up with Tanya a girl I had met in Ulan-ude hostel. We left late morning and by lunch time had our first veiw of the lake.
Just the sheer size of it is just incredable with it holding 15% of the worlds fresh water. With the waves rolling onto the shore and even a slight tyde mark in the sand but yet we were standing by a lake.
We arived in the Natinal park late evening.

With a clear sky we camped on the beach right next to the lake. Even better there were NO mosquitos.

Sunday 14 August 2011

as i trundled along the road to Ulan-ude


As I trundled along the road to Ulan-ude I came across some more great people chasing their dreams:



The first was a young German girl cycling from Irkutsk in Russia to Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia!






The second was these two guys driving a British ambulance from London to Mongolia for charity with the intention of donating it when they arrive in Ulaanbaatar.





out of Mongolia and back to Russia




Saying goodbye to Mongolia……




……..and hello to Russia for the 3rd time.



Well as far as feelings go it was strange to say it felt a little like going home. I can’t really explain it but I suppose it was just going back to a familiar ground and a language I’m slowly beginning to understand.
But all I will say it felt good to be back and on to the next step of the adventure.








It was a mountainous drive on route to Ulan-ude but it was more than clear I was back in Russia.







Friday 12 August 2011

Finaly......

Ok so hear I am in Irkutsk Russia....
First of all I really need to apologize for the lack no contact over the last... well long time. I am still alive and going strong. Over the next couple of weeks I will make my way up to Magadan at the end of the road of bones.

I will give you all a long drawn out story soon so keep an eye out. So for Now I will say this:



Mongolia:

Mongolia has been amazing but very demanding. The roads are non existant and are just dirt tracks with some being really hard to drive with not being able to do more than 30mph so over the day not realy managing to cover much mileage.
I have lost count of the river crossings I have had to do one on the 2nd day when I was with the French cars took us 2-3 hours to cross due to trying to find a safe place to cross.
It has been a lot of fun but just tiring. It is all worth it with the endless beauty and changing landscapes, Mongolia is just a magical place to be. I have been doing most of my shopping in the local markets so it has been fairly easy to carry food ECT... I've kept all water and fuel topped up but had no real problems along those lines. I suppose the first issue came when I met the two German bikers that I had met in Russia the day before I crossed the Mongolian border. They waved me down and asked me to camp the night with them, as I was in no hurry to be anywhere I agreed. It was nice sitting around exchanging adventure stories. It was a little windy that day but I had no Idea what was about to come.
It was mid afternoon when I decided to put the tent up, I had just finished when I turned to see what looked like a 200ft wall of sand heading my way! I didn’t have time to do anything but grab hold of the Landy… The sand storm hit hard and fast, the cover to my tent was blown into the dust cloud along with one of the German’s tent! I had never seen anything like it before in my life! When it eased up we were able to go and see what we could recover! The only thing I lost was the cover to the ladder extension!
It was heading towards Ulaanbaatar when I got two flat tyres a day apart with the 2nd being the new one… so you can imagine how that impressed me! Well when I got to Ulaanbaatar I managed to get one tyre repaired (the new one) but the other old one cant be repaired due to the damage but I'm not to worried an the mo as I have one spare and may look into getting another in Russia for when I do the road of bones as all tyres will have to be replaced anyway when I get to Canada.
I only meant to stay in Ulaanbaatar a couple of nights but ended staying about a week due to meeting some great people. I really wish I could name all names but I thing I would be hear all night. But I have to say Thank you to the Oasis café and guesthouse for a wonderful stay, the perfect place for overlanders. All the bikers out there you all are great fun! Of course to the London to Mongolia ambulances all place crazy and a great butch I had a few good nights with you all. The other guests of the Oasis and to David in the Jersey land rover and Andy in the Australian Nissan Patrol both whom I spent most of my time with.

It’s finally time to head for the Russian border…….

Goodbye Mongolia, Thank you for my time in your amazing landscape……

Thursday 7 July 2011

Day 20 14th May 2011

D20 Beyneu – Atyrau
Miles All day


We woke feeling refreshed and ready to get back on the road. We were warned the road to border wasn’t very good as it was all dirt and we were to be careful. We set off around 9:30 but not before saying goodbye to Locha and taking a few photos.

We brimmed the tanks, and I’m pleased to say at 28p a litre I was quite happy.
Well they weren’t wrong about the advice on the road. With the rain yesterday and yet more last night the road was thick slippery mud! We had done around 20 miles when disaster stuck…… Simon fell off his bike, he was ok but he had damaged the bike.

I had picked up a card from one of the British expacks in Atyrau, so we decided to give him a call and explain the situation. He understood and was able to make a few phone calls. In the meantime some passers by had stopped to see if they could help.
We flagged down a passing flat bed transit type sized truck. So with a bit of heve-ho we got the bike on the back.

We arrived back at Lochas who was very surprised to see us again. We unloaded the bike and a mechanic had a look at it. We herd back from mark telling us that his friend Shaun had sent a van on its way to pick the bike up to get it back to Atyrau.

It was around midday now Simon wasn’t very happy as I can imagine but there wasn’t much we could do until the van arrived.

When the van did get hear and got the bike loaded it was around 6pm. Simon road in with me along with most of his gear and we set off following the van…. Well trying to follow the van as I was driving a fully even more so now loaded Defender! The van was off well not to worry there was only one road to Atyrau. On the drive back the rain came in yet again and with the road having no run off it soon turned the road into a river! It wasn’t to last long though and soon enough it was clearing up. I was able to witness one of the most amazing sunset’s driving back to Atyrau I had ever seen.

We soon caught the van up as it had to stop for fuel. It wasn’t far from the city and so we then followed it to Shaun’s house.

We arrived around 11pm at Shaun’s house; it was a beautiful Finnish log cabin. Shaun couldn’t have been more welcoming. We got the bike off the van, parked the landy on the drive and had a cold beer put in my hand.

So we were able to unwind drink a few beers and just to have a good old chat about life. It was around 3:30 am when I finally went to bed.

Day 19 13th May 2011

D19 Atyrau – Beyneu
268miles 6hours 11minutes


Waking a little later than planned I and feeling like I could have stayed there a little longer! Still after a fantastic shower I was feeling good. Full English was on offer for breakfast but thinking my stomach couldn’t take this I just opted for some cereal and pancakes.

We were off leaving the city behind us heading out back onto the steppe. Miles passed the scenery didn’t we were in the desert. Even though we were miles from anywhere we were never far from a train line. Its not a desert is hard to explain, with tufts grass all over the place but was just incredibly flat. I must admit I do love this feeling of remoteness I’m getting at the moment.

We stopped at a small group of morsaliams that were in fact very grand and just unbelievably in the middle of know where. I would later on in the trip find out that this was common across Kazakhstan. I t was a relatively easy drive with the roads being considerably better than Russia… well for the time being anyway. After a few hours on the road the rain came in and did it just. It was my first taste of what the rain was like out hear but at least it didn’t last that long but even so it turned the road into a lake. It was early afternoon when we arrived in the small town/village of Beyneu. We had some details of a local man who was expecting us as Walter (a seasoned traveller) had stayed with him before. It was a small yard with a few buses and cars about all being worked on by a couple of mechanics. It was hard to work out whom who was around hear but Locha was such a kind man who was very hospitable. It was a great place…. well I thought it was anyway. There were a couple of girls running around the place who ran the kind of dinner I suppose you could call it. They did local food that was really filling and was so good.

We were put up for the night in a small bunk room which turned out to be one of the best nights sleep I had.

Sunday 15 May 2011

Day 18 2011

D18 Astrakhan – Atyrau
229hours 9hours



Good morning all, well what a change it was today. After a fantastic nights sleep and with the sun shinning I was feeling good. We had an early breakfast said goodbye to the girls running the guest house and hit the road. Still leaving the city was a site to see typical rush hour and at one junction we thought we were on a one way street it wasn’t organised chaos it was just ignorance with gridlock with queues of cars on our side of the road facing us…. Now how does that work? Still glad to be out of there!

We drove through some beautiful countryside on the way to the border and being amazed at the flooding all around. We passed over a very strange bridge seemed a little make shift to me crossing a very swollen river.

It was only 40 or so miles to the border. It was very easy indeed being very relaxed and the border guards being very light hearted even making the odd joke. We passed both sections in only a matter of hours.

That’s it WE ARE IN KAZAKHSTAN!!!!! As mile after mile went by with not such great roads, we noticed the remoteness of the country with the scenery becoming almost desert like. We were driving across the Kazakhstan steppe! It wasn’t long be for we had to stop… as to the left of us was our first camel. I know it may sound strange but it was great to us.

As we were driving across this vast country and being shaken to bits by the road conditions I started to notice how few cars were on the road at this point, im not saying there wernt any by all means there were every now and then. I think its just comparing to Russian traffic. Still to me anyway it felt good heading out into the sticks.

We made good time as we rolled into Atyrau. It was a strange site as all the way we had never been to far away from a train line and seeing the odd mile long train we soon realised why. This was an oil town, it looked like a small Dalles if you like a city in the middle of a desert. We had a british contact hear going by the name of mike who pointed us in the direction of a couple of places to stay. We found one third time lucky with needing gidence from a taxi driver to find!

Not a bad place but got scalped on the price for what it was but all was made better by the very king generosity of Mike, his wife Charlie, Mark along with their friends who were all British ex packs working on mostly 4 on 4 off rotation. They were kind enough by not letting us buy any beer or dinner. This will never be forgotten.

At we got back to bed that night but beer and tiredness mixed I could bairly see my diary let alone write in it although I did see in the morning at my atemp to! Apparently no sooner than I had put it down I was asleep.

Day 17 2011

D17 Volgograd – Astrakhan

267miles 7hours 34minutes

I woke after having to be honest a rubbish nights sleep. Breakfast was at 8am and we were on the road waving goodbye to Volgograd by 9am. As we left the city, the weather and traffic was rubbish. Once out of the city it was a bizar land scape almost post apocalyptic with the abandoned buildings some new that they had just left halfway through the build along with the endless miles of power lines. After a wile all this changed to nothing, yeh that’s rite nothing! For 200 miles or so with the exception of a few villages it was all just open plane.

Still the roads were better and fewer cars so all in all a relaxing drive by the end with it being sunny and hot to. As this is still westen Russia and not the best place to camp as being advised by other travellers we picked our way through the streets of Astrikhan to a small guest house.

Even though it wasn’t a hard drive and maybe it was because I had a bad night sleep I’m just feeling exhausted. Just reflecting over the last few weeks but also realiseing that I am indeed missing family and all my friends back home. You are all with me through my travels.

I had a beer and dumplings for dinner and Simon had gulash. Feeling so much better with a good feed it was time for bed!

Day 16 2011

Last day in Volgograd

We didn’t have much on the agenda today, so after a lye in and breakfast we had a little catch up on the diary front. Ilya came around at 11am and with his help I was able to go shopping for supplies for the next few days.
We sorted a few things out including our Russian sim cards before the afternoon.

As Ilya had to go to university for a few hours from 2pm. We spent an hour or so checking over the vehicles levels, greasing most things that move.

That night we were to say our goodbyes to Suzie who was leaving to fly back to the UK. To Ilya and Sophia who had both been so welcoming and giving up so much of their time over the last three days and to Dan the Norweigen jernorlist who has a 7am flight.

It was a wonderful way to say goodbye over dinner and all being together was a special way to say goodbye.

It was just Simon and I now, both feeling tired it was time to hit the hay.

Day 15 2011

Volgograd May 9th Victory day.

I woke reasonably early with some excitement with the wonder of today’s events. It was a little bit of a shame that the weather was a little wet, cold and cloudy – especially as it had been such a gorgeous day yesterday. We went into the street straight after breakfast. Crowds were beginning to gather and the soldiers were getting together in their battalions. After a while and as Simon and Susie had a room overlooking the square we made our way upstairs to see the parade from above as we saw what turned out to be the dress rehearsal on Friday evening.

It was an incredible sight to see, despite the rain. It all started at 10:00 am – by which time the crowds must have been 15 deep. So we were quite lucky we had the room as we may not have been able to see much on the ground. The parade lasted around 2 to 3 hours in the square. Just the sight of all the troops in their dress uniforms on the most symbolic day of the year gave me an incredible feeling.

Around 3pm Ilya returned to be our city guide once again. He took us on a Volga River boat trip. We did get a little shock as the Russians do like their music and they do like it loud. So the boat trip lasted just over an hour – loud music and some interesting dancing by the other travellers – still we did get some interesting views of the city and had fun.

After the boat trip we met with Sofia as by now it was early evening and we headed for dinner. We were joined by a Norwegian journalist that Sofia was translating for. After dinner, around 10:00pm we walked to the river to see a firework display. There was a fantastic atmosphere – a fantastic end to a fantastic day.

Day 14 2011

Day 14 Day Off In Volgograd
Voronezh – Volgograd

354 miles 8hours 32 minutes

It was quite a pleasant night on this little gastinitsa (truck stop) witch looked like your typical movie knocking shop with the fake purple silk curtains etc.

We got an early get away being on the road by 7am and put a few miles down – well I say we but I think I was a little more keen than Simon after last nights banya escapade.

It was around 9am when we had our first fuel stop and breakfast Twix. It was back to the hard drive, it wasn’t so much the trip but the shocking roads and even more shocking Russian driving skills or lack of… But hey it’s all part of the experience I suppose. It was amazing to see the scenery change from woodland to farmland as far as the eye could see. It was strange as we were driving through a section of forest that reminded me of the new forest back in England.

We did a pit stop to have a drink and stretch our legs at a small memorial of a plane crash of a jet fighter. It was a little odd with the tail of the plane sticking out of the ground and the picture of the pilot on the side as the memorial.

We had great delight when we were stopped by two police men at a check point. We had been stopped for supposedly doing 61kmh in a 60kmh zone. Both were very friendly with one being larger character it was hand shakes all round. They wanted to know what we were doing so having a map on the side of the land rover I was able to show them, the amazement in their faces was a picture. So with a good luck and a hand shake they sent us on our way. They seemed keen to move me as I was in the way of the speed gun. Once away we had a good laugh about it over the radio and how they didn’t want to see any paper work so they probably just wanted to see what we were doing.

We were passing through small town and villages, amazing to see they were still using all the old wells maybe around 5ish scattered through each village.

We arrived around 3:30pm in Volgograd and finding the hotel with ease and with relevance a small amount of traffic. It just felt good to be hear and on such a special weekend. It put both of us at ease being able to put the bike and landy in secure parking as it was such a big city and with the thousands of tourists about to embark on the place this weekend.

We both went for a short walk and even down to the river Valgor. As we were there standing looking across the river in amazement in the size of it there was a group of women dressed it traditional clothes singing and soon came up the steps where Simon and I were standing.

Our stomachs were rumbling and as neither of us had much to eat today. As Suzie was due into the city around 9pm we found a small place called bar & grill well the name says it all a great place to wait as it was in the square too. Wile we ate we had some entertainment provided by the local police department. The were all hanging around closing off the square to all traffic, now wile they did this one of them had a motor bike (a Jowa) with all the others taking it in turns to have goes. So in their smart short sleeved shirts and shinny shoes so off they wobbly well went with a few stalls and sudden breaking. I don’t know who had more fun them or us watching them.

We were lucky enough to see the final dress rehearsal for the victory day parade to give us a little taster of what was to come. It wasn’t long before we hared that Suzie had landed, but disaster Suzie was hear but her bag wasn’t. She was quite upset as I’m sure any of us would be and I’m sure it’s happened to most of us I know it’s happened to me before. Still we popped back to the bar to reassure her and get a drink in to reassure her. It was a pleasant evening with smiles all around.

It was around 8:30 when I woke, such a good feeling to have a little lie in. The morning started in a relaxed way – with no rush. After breakfast Simon had a contact here that we were going to meet. Sofia came to the hotel at 10:00 am. She had organised for an English student – a very polite, friendly guy called Ilya.

It was a beautiful sunny day in the city as we walked round. We started in the square and headed down the avenue of heroes. As we walked by the Red Army Monument and the Eternal Flame there was a group of soldiers laying wreaths. There was a huge number of people laying single and bunches of flowers at the monument.

Further down there were lots of signs the Victory Day Celebrations would soon be under way. We soon reached the River Volga – the huge river that helped save and resupply the troops and the city.

We walked along the river bank to the Panorama Museum and next to that the shell of the old flower mill – the only building from the old city of Stalingrad left standing. It was around this time that Sofia had to reluctantly go to work – Ilya took us into the Panorama Museum. It was a little like the tardis inside – it was spectacular to see the displays of weaponry and uniforms. It was easy to see the poorly equipped Germans with their thin uniforms compared to the very thick warm clothes of the Russians. There was a stunning 360 degree painting and display of the Stalingrad battle.

It was now around mid afternoon and Susie had to go to the airport to see if her bag had arrived. The decision was made to have a quick bite of lunch first before Susie and Ilya left for the airport. So Simon and I went for a wander through the park, up to the beautiful grand building of the city railway station. We then headed back to the hotel to do some photos and blogs.

One very happy Susie arrived with her bag and early evening all 4 of us decided to go and see the statue of Mother Russia. Ilya was kind enough to take us on Volgograd’s underground tram. As we mounted the steps we saw the statue for the first time – she took my breath away. Even though we still had a fair walk up the hill she had such a presence, standing 84 metres high with an almost goddess feel.

As we walked up the steps we were climbing between 2 walls which had battlefield carvings of soldiers and scenes – it felt to me as though the soldiers depicted were embedded in history. We passed through the Stalingrad Memorial with a sculpture of a hand holding the eternal flame with all the names of the soldiers around the building. The stairs followed the inside edge of the building in a spiral to exit at the top. As we exited we turned to our right and there she was – towering above us into the sky. Just sheer magnificence is the only way I can describe it. Apparently she faces west with her sword held high.

There was a happy feel that night as we had dinner with lost luggage returned and a pleasant feel to the evening.

Looking forward to The May 9th Parade tomorrow…

Day 13 2011

Voronezh – Volgograd

354 miles 8hours 32 minutes

It was quite a pleasant night on this little gastinitsa (truck stop) witch looked like your typical movie knocking shop with the fake purple silk curtains etc.

We got an early get away being on the road by 7am and put a few miles down – well I say we but I think I was a little more keen than Simon after last nights banya escapade.

It was around 9am when we had our first fuel stop and breakfast Twix. It was back to the hard drive, it wasn’t so much the trip but the shocking roads and even more shocking Russian driving skills or lack of… But hey it’s all part of the experience I suppose. It was amazing to see the scenery change from woodland to farmland as far as the eye could see. It was strange as we were driving through a section of forest that reminded me of the new forest back in England.

We did a pit stop to have a drink and stretch our legs at a small memorial of a plane crash of a jet fighter. It was a little odd with the tail of the plane sticking out of the ground and the picture of the pilot on the side as the memorial.

We had great delight when we were stopped by two police men at a check point. We had been stopped for supposedly doing 61kmh in a 60kmh zone. Both were very friendly with one being larger character it was hand shakes all round. They wanted to know what we were doing so having a map on the side of the land rover I was able to show them, the amazement in their faces was a picture. So with a good luck and a hand shake they sent us on our way. They seemed keen to move me as I was in the way of the speed gun. Once away we had a good laugh about it over the radio and how they didn’t want to see any paper work so they probably just wanted to see what we were doing.

We were passing through small town and villages, amazing to see they were still using all the old wells maybe around 5ish scattered through each village.

We arrived around 3:30pm in Volgograd and finding the hotel with ease and with relevance a small amount of traffic. It just felt good to be hear and on such a special weekend. It put both of us at ease being able to put the bike and landy in secure parking as it was such a big city and with the thousands of tourists about to embark on the place this weekend.

We both went for a short walk and even down to the river Valgor. As we were there standing looking across the river in amazement in the size of it there was a group of women dressed it traditional clothes singing and soon came up the steps where Simon and I were standing.

Our stomachs were rumbling and as neither of us had much to eat today. As Suzie was due into the city around 9pm we found a small place called bar & grill well the name says it all a great place to wait as it was in the square too. Wile we ate we had some entertainment provided by the local police department. The were all hanging around closing off the square to all traffic, now wile they did this one of them had a motor bike (a Jowa) with all the others taking it in turns to have goes. So in their smart short sleeved shirts and shinny shoes so off they wobbly well went with a few stalls and sudden breaking. I don’t know who had more fun them or us watching them.

We were lucky enough to see the final dress rehearsal for the victory day parade to give us a little taster of what was to come. It wasn’t long before we hared that Suzie had landed, but disaster Suzie was hear but her bag wasn’t. She was quite upset as I’m sure any of us would be and I’m sure it’s happened to most of us I know it’s happened to me before. Still we popped back to the bar to reassure her and get a drink in to reassure her. It was a pleasant evening with smiles all around.

Day 12 2011

Bryansk – Voronezh

309 miles 9hours 53mins

I woke this morning after a great nights sleep; I was woken once or twice in the night by the rain and couldn’t believe how heavy it was. Oh well it was now morning, still a little damp around. We packed our things and I gave the landy a level check and top up and all before breakfast. There was a very kind man there who was so so kind, all he wanted to do was help.

We rolled out a little later than planned but hey that’s just the way things are sometimes. Once again we were on the so called motorways being over taken by Ladas with no care for road rules or oncoming traffic. It wasn’t long before we had a quick fuel stop. The roads seem to get a little better as time went on. We passed through Oryol, the town that we had planned to reach but as we passed through we were both so glad we didn’t push on the night before.

We stopped at a small trucker’s café to get a something to eat. We had a small salad or should I say chopped vegetables that were very filling…. I even had my first long drop experience; well it was an experience that’s all I will say. Around 20 minutes or so later and we were back on the road. As we drove along the sun broke through the clouds. Around an hour later we came across a war memorial and so decided to stop. As it happens a wedding party had gathered and were busy taking pictures, at the same time the memorial was having a coat of paint, guessing in preparation for Victory day.

Around 30 or so miles down the road we witnessed the most amazing thunder and lightning storm and thought we were going to drive straight into it. We pulled into the next fuel station so Simon could batten down the hatches on his riding gear. Its always the way because as we were doing this the storm blew through so we didn’t get much more than a shower.

We had a small miracle or it felt like it to us. We turned on to the M4, it was a wonderful smooth duel carriage way with most of it being a toll road but who cares it made a pleasant change. We were able to sit happily at 60mph I know not a lot but I am driving a 3 tone land rover that is my home for the foreseeable future.

It was late afternoon as we approached Voronezh and time to find a place to sleep. After battling through the city rush hour traffic we found a small truck stop gastenitra. It was a funny little place a little place with a little strange taste. We had dinner at a little café downstairs with me having borscht a type of Russian soup. I was offered a banya (sauna) I happily said yes with having them through Scandinavia. But on seeing it and being offered to be oiled up by the owner – thinking this sounded a little more than odd and was in no way like Norway I retreated back to dinner.

Safe back in my bunk its time to say good night!

Benjy

Day 11 2011

Belarus – Russia
Gomel – Bryansk

250 miles
10hours 7mins

We both woke a little excited for to day’s adventures as to day we were hitting the Russian border! After breakfast we got going around 8:30, it was a rather pleasant morning – not being to cold ad dry.

We drove around 40 mins to the border or rather first border. It was a little strange for us as this was an open border so Belarusian’s and Russians can pass with ease. It was for us – not so good as the guards just looked at our passports and waved us through. So hear we were in what we thought was no mans land between Belarus and Russia but it wasn’t – we were in fact in Russia…. This could spell disaster as we had no Belarus exit stamp and no Russian entry stamp! The decision was made to go back to the guards and ask once again, they showed us another border on the map around an hour south of this one.

Off we went in search of this mystery other border crossing, yes that’s rite we are back in Belarus! We stopped in a small village as Simon needed fuel and rather risking carrying on he decided to go back to one that we passed a couple of miles back.. I waited wile he went back. The village was very quiet with only the odd car and passer by. One man did come over to say hello and with a little signs language we got by. Still wile I was waiting for Simon I managed to get a little more of my diary done. It wasn’t long before I heard the rumble of the BMW motor bike carrying Simon. We were back on the road and continuing our search.

We seemed to be driving back and beyond down small farm tracks. We arrived at this small border crossing and I mean small, but still it looked official. As this was the Belarus exit border we didn’t even sit in a queue… in fact there weren’t even any other cars there. It was quite funny as the border was a little bit of paradise with mowed grass, nice fences all around, they even had bird houses all around. Almost seemed to me as when the border guards they made the bird houses as there were so many around.

It was a very straight forward border crossing only taking around 40 mins or so. We then learned it was a three way border, turn right for Ukraine and left for Russia! So after much thought ha-ha we turned left! There is was the Russian border queue, not as bad as a couple I’d seen but still bad enough. It seemed everyone was passing from Ukraine to Russia. It was your typical border with everyone out of their cars standing around. We relaxed for a wile and even had a drink (of water) and some munchies. After a wile a man came from what seemed out of the blue but was in fact parked behind us. He was very keen to chat and with no English and with us with minimal Russian but after a wile he just wouldn’t leave us alone. He seemed keen to chat to Simon as I took a step back and sat on my bonnet to observe and take a few pictures. I looked to me Simon had made a new best friend.. Simon to excape wondered off down to the front of the queue. He returned around 15 mins later saying we were able to go to the front of the queue.

Its quite difficalt to describe this border crossing as there were no big buildings, just 3 or 4 sheds almost like a road cheak point. Once again running around doing paperwork getting stamps, copies of passports ect. And around an hour and a half later we were through. One of the guards said “you come from Belarus, just go” he bdidnt have to tell us twice… we were off! We were in Russia… with a quick pause to get the insurance sorted we were on the road! Well hear we were on the russian roads ant to be honest we didn’t get the feeling we were expecting, the roads were terrible the driving even worse. They called these motorways or main roads…. Yeh right!

After a few hours dealing with the tramlines (groves trucks make in the road) we could go no further. We reached a town called Bryansk were we got a cheap motel where we got a bed for the night. Both exhausted and straight after dinner it was time to hit the hay.
Night night!

Day 10 2011

Wednesday 4th May

Brest – Gomel

333 miles
7hours 55mins

It was a very cold damp morning in Brest, quite a difference to the last time I was here. We got on the road around 8-8:30 but after a few false starts so Simon could turn his radio off after a lot of interference. We got going, waving goodbye to Brest and making our way toGomel. At the start there was a big sense of déjà vu as I was on the same road out of Brest – the very long straight M1 as I was on last year. Not long after this and only within 30 miles or so we turned off to the M10 which would take us all the way to Gomel. The road was very unadventurous but with changing scenery and ever changing road surfaces it did give me something to admire.

We knew today was going to be a long one so we stopped off around every 100 miles or so. At one of our stops we had the rolls that we had snaffled from the Etap hotel in Krakow. While we were there we befriended 2 stray dogs where they seemed to have made the rest area their home. Hungry ourselves we were still happy to share our lunch with them both. While we were eating a truck pulled into the rest area and a friendly Byelorussian called Andre climbed out to say hello.

After about 20 minutes we were on the road again. Still it was after noon and the sun came out and everything started to warm up – including Simon who had been so cold this morning he was almost an ice block !

It was a pleasant afternoon as we drove into Gomel – that seemed like a lively and busy town. But mind you it was near rush hour.

We found a hotel called Paradise near the city train station. Simon went to see if he could secure a room and I guarded the vehicles. I have never had my photo taken so many times; I don’t think they get many adventurous like us in this neck of the woods.

Still I can’t complain – I enjoyed it. On Simon’s return he came with the good news that he had secured a room. And a none too shabby one at that! Apparently he had secured the last room at the inn – a VIP Apartment style one. That evening we had a brief walk to see a bit of the city. We had a beer in a small beer tent near the hotel. Dinner was once again very nice and cheap – I had what looked like chopped meat and potatoes served in a very hot pot.

Another day to another day on the road.

For tomorrow is Russia…

Wednesday 4 May 2011

Day 9 2011

Tuesday 3 April 2011

Krakow – Brest

311 Miles
10 hrs 36 secs

It was 5:50am my alarm is ringing, yes an early start indeed but with all good intentions. After breakfast and with snaffling a couple of rolls and making a couple of sandwiches each for the intention of lunch at the anticipated long queue for the border from my previous experiences.

It was 7am when we left the very practical etap hotel. I would love to give you a long drawn out adventurous story of our last ride in Europe to the Belarus border but I cant!

The drive was long cold, colder for Simon on the bike as it was only 6c. We had around three stops to stretch our legs, empty our tanks and have a coffee type thing. We even had 5mins to chat to save us from the boredom. Here we are at the Poland / Belarus border, sum 6 hours 300 miles after leaving Krakow this morning.

I was amazed as we rolled up to the border…… NO QUEUE!!!

I have done a fair few border crossings last year with everyone sitting in long queues for hours on end.. Oh well time to get stuck in with all this tedious gruel of it that I have come to know so well after last years adventures. The first half where we were leaving Poland was very quick indeed, with the help of a very kind young border guard. She checked over the vehicles and processed our paper work all in the matter of about 20 mins.

The next step was to cross no mans land as we call it, about half a kilometer to the other side of the border, this is the half where we will be entering Belarus. This as you may well be able to imagine took quite a wile longer. This I had done before and all my memories came flooding back to me, with the numerous form filling with no English (always makes life fun) running between buildings and cabins etc, still its all part of the adventure and just something that has to be done.

This part as you can imagine took a little longer - but still we where in no great hurry. I’m sure when we finally get everything sorted and we left the border guards where glad to see the back of us as there were a few that helped us with nearly our every move but still they all seemed friendly enough, maybe because it was such a quiet border and they didn’t have to deal with people like us everyday.

We have arrived – finally we are in Belarus, for me the second time in under a year and Simon his first but with both of us feeling the excitement and the achievement of the day!

As we came into Breast and as I had stayed hear before I said I know of a hotel. So I led Simon the ummm scenic route to the hotel, my excuse being they’ve moved the f***king hotel.

Its an odd feeling of being back hear and in the same hotel as last year, a place I never thought I’d see again. We checked in and took our things to the room.
We put the landy and bike into the secure parking. It was as we did this there where two local guys taking pictures, keen to chat ask about ourselves and even take pictures of us…… I know who would have thought it!

Anyway a brief walk and to find a bar it was, a nice local place just around the corner. We even ended up eating hear. We had two good meals two deserts four beers and two coffees all for the equivalent of under £15.

Both exhausted from the days adventures and milestone border crossing its time to hit the hay.

Until tomorrow…… night night all.

Benjy

Monday 2 May 2011

Day 8 - 2011

Monday 2 May

Oswiciem to Krakow

60.5 miles

5 hours 40 mins

As we knew it was going to be an easy day’s drive we decided the night before to have a lie in. Well “Good Morning” at 7:30am – if you can call that a lie in, still the sun had come out to say “hello” again after hiding for the last 36 hours !

We got going around 9:00am for the Wieliczka Salt Mine. It was just after 10:00 when we arrived so with time to have a quick coffee and then join a group for the 11:00am tour.

I didn’t know what to expect but the excitement grew as we walked downwards from ground level the 52 floors to the first underground level. The mine had an incredible 300km of tunnels running over 9 levels and going down as far as 327 metres – but we were going nowhere near this today. But still we walked 3 km through the tunnels over 2 levels and down to 135 metres. Still this was enough to open my eyes to the incredible engineering factor of the place with a huge chapel and an array of many shrines for praying.

We were told that it was important to all the miners to have high spirits and to have a laugh and have fun while they worked to keep them in a good frame of mind whilst they worked. It was important to them to have the chapel and shrines as they liked to pray to keep themselves safe as it was an incredibly dangerous job as every year 10% of the workforce lost their lives in an array of many accidents.

The mine opened early in the 13th Century and continued to produce table salt until 1996. The company continued to trade until 2007, this made the Wieliczka Company the 4th oldest trading company in the world.

The mine became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 with an incredible 1.2 million tourists passing through the doors each year. We certainly felt that as we were almost herded like sheep through the mines tunnels.

Around 2 hours later we emerged from the mine, all feeling a little rumble in our stomachs and with a considerable thirst. We decided to have a small lunch. While I had a Hamburger Simon & Susie shared a Pizza, it was your typical tourist attraction lunch.

We saddled back up and made the short journey to the Etap hotel in Krakow.

It was the end of the holiday feel because Susie (Wilma) my co-pilot and navigator through Europe who was far better than “Betty” my Garmin SatNav, was to leave us that evening.

We had an early farewell dinner and poped Susie in a cab to the airport. That was it. The boys were left on their own. So let the adventure begin…

So what do we do first ? Straight to the pub..? No !! Find the nearest Strip Club..? No !! We headed back to the hotel to write our journals and have an early night for an early start the next morning…

Yes..! We know how to live life on the edge..!

Good Night All…

Day 7 - 2011

Sunday 1 May

Oswiciem (Auschwitz)

10 miles

20 mins

Even though today was a day off from driving, we were all up early to get started first thing. Breakfast was wonderful with pancakes on the menu!

We arrived at Auschwitz by 8.30am and it was reasonably quiet (for now). The feeling of this place having such a terrible history was apparent as soon as we arrived. I would say it was hard to describe my feelings as we wandered around the camp if this were true, but it is not, my feelings became very easy to describe. At first it was just pure horror that 1.1 million people of all ages (men, women and children) lost their lives through murder (being gassed, shot, tortured, or having experiments done on them), malnutrition (starvation) and many health reasons or through the way they were kept. Then there was the very apparent sense of feeling sick to my stomach and anger at what had happened here. The sadness that I felt and how one human could do such things to another, as everything that happened was on such a personal basis, from torture to being stripped before execution, either in the gas chamber or before a firing squad.

We drove 2 minutes down the road to Birkenau camp (Auschwitz II), the world’s largest extermination camp covering 425 acres of small wooden or brick buildings with every 4 being fenced off from the next together with barbed wire. It was incredible that such a huge place with one thing in mind – to kill, murder, wipe-out, to end life no matter how you look at it, it was there....

That afternoon I wrote and as I write now I think we all left with sadness in our hearts and sombre thoughts. If I sat here now and wrote down all my thoughts and feelings I would end up writing a book. I am going to leave you now with those thoughts in the hope that tomorrow is a happier day.

For all those who read this please give 1 minute’s thought to all those who lost their lives in the ‘HELL ON EARTH’......

Thank you , Benjy

Day 6 - 2011

Saturday 30 April

Prague – Oswiciem (Auschwitz)

268 miles
7 hrs 37 mins

It was once again a bright and sunny early Saturday morning in Prague. It was very pleasant looking out over the river Voltava that runs through Prague - chance to reflect and admire this beautiful city in the morning sun for the last time. By 7.30am the wheels were rolling through this very quiet city, it was a short 43 miles to the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora, or the bone church as it is more commonly known as. We arrived quite early and for the first 30 minutes or so had the place to ourselves. 40,000 people made up the decorations, a very surreal feeling and all because a bloke going by the name of Mark went to the holyland and brought back some soil to scatter over the church yard. Because of this people (generally wealthy) wanted to be buried here. With so many bodies to be buried in such a small graveyard, insufficient space to do justice to the burials was available. Consequently corpses had been piled up and buried in a random ad-hoc manner. The monk in charge gave the instruction that something had to be done to provide a fitting resting place for these poor souls. One individual given the task found a novel use for the piles of bones when he not only re-buried many of the bodies, but used the bones from several thousand individuals to create bizarre decorations within the crypt of the church.

The feeling came that it was time o leave when the coach load of tourists turned up, we got rolling eastwards with a brief but seemingly regular stop to fill the tanks, empty ours and grab a bite. With what seemed like a short run we were in Oswiciem, a quiet Polish town but with a dark and sinister history – Auschwitz, the infamous Nazi extermination camp. We got to the hotel early afternoon but after being quite busy, all feeling exhausted. We had a quiet afternoon and opted for an early dinner and an early night as were to be up early the following day to go and Auschwitz museum.

We were discussing over dinner how the trip so far seemed to be revolving all around death (so if you are reading this and are to thinking the same, then yes we are aware of this!). We all knew the history of Auschwitz but were all uncertain as to what we would feel the following day.

Sunday 1 May 2011

Day 5 2011

Friday 29 April 2011 (Royal Wedding Day!)

A day in Prague – a city worth losing yourself in……

0 Miles!


After an almost leisurely lie-in, apart from being woken by the refuse collection, we had a beautiful view across the river Voltava in Prague the perfect way to start a day in this historical and almost fairytale like city.

After much discussion on the days plans we headed out to wander the streets. The city is almost overwhelming in beauty with each building being different to the next. The sculptures and paintings on the houses high above the streets, we learned later in the day was because instead of an address (as at this time few could read and write) it was a way of telling people who lived there.

The first thing we did was to head up the Bell Tower to see Prague from above and what a view of the worlds largest Cathedral in the distance, and the spires of many churches standing high above the red terracotta roofs. We took a city tour in a beautiful red 1928 Ford Model A 3.5ltr 25bhp 4cyl that did 3 miles to the gallon. The tour weas wonderful lasting almost an hour, the surprise halfway in as we approached the castle, there was a parade of Willys Jeeps and WW2 army American trucks with a couple of Harley motorbikes thrown in. This parade was to mark the freedom or a liberty parade to celebrate the ending of the war for the Americans holding the line. It was great fun as we drove straight into the middle of it. At the same time it was the changing of the guard.

After the tour we continued to see the city and had a coffee while the famous Astronomical clock struck 12 noon. As we wandered the city it is hard to describe the feeling you get, it is so easy to lose oneself in it.

Note about Rita!

Day 4 2011

Thursday 28 April 2011

Bad Kissingen - Prague

268 Miles
8 Hours 26 mins

As we gathered for breakfast, we decided to get some faster miles under our belt. So after breakfast we said goodbye to Bad Kissingen and headed East on the Autobahn dealing with 130mph traffic. We did a quick fuel stop not far from the motorway that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. So after throwing another tank full in and a quick ice-cream we headed back onto the motorway but not for long though, after an hour or so we turned off and once again the roads became smaller and before we knew it we were crossing the border into the Czech Republic. Almost intsnatly we knew we were no longer in western Europe and had a distinct feeling of being in the East, these feelings grew as we headed across country passing through some of the most rural scenery that we had seen, almost like stepping back in time. Driving through all the back lanes enabled us to see the Czech rarely seen by others. As\ we approached Prague, quick as a flash we were in a busy modern city. We bumbled along in the city traffic to our hotel or Botel as it is called being a barge, with parking under the bridge for the Landy. Once parked we were able to drop our things and take a breath at this most beautiful and romantic city.
That evening we had dinner in a delightful little fish restaurant but very pleased the food was better than the service, if it had taken much longer, evolution would have given the fish legs and served themselves! After we headed back to the hotel and spent the evening drinking cappucinos, whiskies, rums and Baileys, talking and putting the world to rights…..

Day 3 2011

Wednesday 27 April 2011

Nurburgring-Bad Kissingen

245 Miles
7 Hours 50 mins

The night before, we decided to make an early start over dinner. So it was a 6.30am and start to get up and moving. We met for breakfast at 7am and all feeling good! Overnight the clouds came in and there were signs of rain, still this was the third day of the expedition and we gathered our things and hit the road. At that moment the heavens opened and down came the rain. So for the next hour or so we were making our way through the beautiful mountain roads in the rain, not too bad for the Landy although being a Landy we did have the odd leak! But we\were looking at a very wet biker in the mirrors but over the radio there was a very cheery voice from Simon saying all was well and he was dry under his liners (not bin liners for those who don’t ride bikes!)

Anyway throughout the day we were greeted by some spectacular German scenery from the flowing Rhine river to the mountain roads. It was about lunchtime that both Simon and I needed to find a tree and stretch our legs so we turned off down a small lane and stopped on a small farm track. We did what we had to, and stretched our legs for 10 minutes, and had a snack and admired the view from the hillside we were on. It was a pleasant drive for the rest of the afternoon and the sun decided to show it’s face and we arrived in Bad Kissingen mid-afternoon., just in time as in came a thunderstorm not long after we checked in. We waited until it cleared and went for a much awaited walk and dinner in town – it had to be Schnitzels for all!

Day 2 2011

Tuesday 26 April 2011

Waterloo-Adenau (Nurburgring)

171 Miles
6 Hours 54 mins

Another sunny warm start to the day. It was only going to be a short drive 8 or 9 miles to the site of the Battleof Waterloo. It was a little slow as it was still rush hour, but 0once the Butte Du Lion, an amazing sight with a 28 ton lion on top of the mound. It was built between 1824-1826 with 225 steps to the top.

We left around 10.30am to make our way to the Nurburgring. It was very flat as we headed through Belgium, driving through very beautiful riverside city of Liege. It was incredibly busy taking us a fair while to weave and duck our way through. It was an odd drive, going from very flat farmland to very dramatic twisty roads heading in to the Eifel mountains, with very steep inclines and ascents through forests incorporating hairpin bends at almost every turn, mixed in with barrow roads, great fun in any sports car or on a bike as Simon will confirm, it made very interesting driving in a landed Land Rover which kept me on my toes, as Susie will confirm!

We got to our hotel in Adenau which just happens to be right next to the track. We dumped our bags and dashed to the loo before we all clambered into the Land Rover and headed up to the Visitors Centre of the track, not much to go on as the museum was really just for kids. After dinner we sat on the balcony writing our journals, a perfect end to a glorious day.

Thursday 28 April 2011

Day 1 2011




Monday 25 April 2011 – D Day
Weston-Eurotunnel-Blocknaus-Ypres-Polygon Wood-TyneCot

296 Miles11.52 Hours

It was an early start at 5am!
Up, shower, coffee and the feeling that this was it! We hit the road at 6am on such a beautiful morning with the sun sitting very lazy in a clear blue sky. The drive down to the Eurotunnel was as easy as could be with hardly any traffic on the road and even less cars queuing for the train.
We rolled off the Eurotunnel around10am French time. As soon as we got off we stopped to regroup and brim the tanks. Mine came to Euro163!!! Yeah I know!!
Our first stop was at the Blockhaus where they made the heavy water for snd launched the V2 almost plane like rocket and the mighty V1 rockets. It was amazing to see the place so intact since it was hit by 25 air strikes including 343 of Burns-Wallace Tall Boy bombs. 20,000 people lost their lives building it.For lunch we stopped in the beautiful market town of Ypres, the weather being hot with a blue sky really made it. After lunch we walked through the town to the Menen Gate where every day at 8pm since the end of the Fist World War they play the last post.
We headed to Polygon Wood afterwards as it was Anzac Day. Polygon Wood is the Australian and New Zealand burial site. We also visited Tyne Cot the largest burial site owned by The Commonwealth Greaves Commission. Both left me with mixed feelings:
1) A huge sense of respect2) Saddened with so many unnamed graves
What they went through and they don’t even get a name on their grave…..

We ended our day at an etap hotel between Brussels and Waterloo